Antique Jewellery Buying Guide

You may have been inspired by your grandmother's old ring  or an actress in a classic film.  But whatever the reason you decide to purchase antique jewellery,  it might not be as easy as simply buying what you like.  In order to get the biggest bangle  for your buck, familiarize yourself with the different types and be able to find a reputable dealer who sells authentic pieces.

Types of Jewellery

• Antique jewellery:  Although antique jewellery may conjure up different ideas for different people, it is typically described as anything 100 years old or older.
• Vintage jewellery:  Vintage jewellery  typically refers to pieces made after the Retro period of the 1940s and through to the 1980s. 
• Specifically, vintage designer costume jewellery  is made with plastics, base metals, and imitation pearls and gems.  It doesn't look massed produced and is often very reflective of the time period--from the gaudy brooches of the 1950s to the bright and bouncy beads of the 1980s.
• Popular designers of vintage costume jewellery include Trifari,  Carnegie,  Sarah Coventry,  Weiss  and Bogoff. 

Choose The Era

Style changes with the passing of time, especially when it comes to jewellery.  And because pieces from certain time periods have such distinguishing features, it's easy to classify antique jewellery by the eras in which they were made and popularized.

• Georgian (1714-1837):  The Georgian period is so named because of the reigns of the four English kings named George.  During this period, luxurious design in both clothing and jewellery was popular.  Georgian Jewellery  is distinct because each piece is handmade, thus varying in quality and price. The designs were often nature-inspired, featuring birds, flowers and leaves, but pieces containing miniature portraits were also popular.  During the early part of the era, diamonds  were used frequently, along with other white stones like paste, marcasite and rock crystal.  As time progressed, coloured gemstones became more popular, specifically amethyst,  rose coral,  garnet,  white-imperial-pink topaz,  ruby  and sapphire. 

• Early Victorian (1837-1860):  This period also overlaps with the Romantic period, and often reflects natural designs.  Flowers, leaves and other greenery were made using a gold filigree  style, where metal threads were bent, curled and intertwined to make delicate shapes.  Lockets  made from all sorts of material were also popular and often held hand-painted miniatures or locks of hair.  Brooches  had some staying power during this period as well, made from silver, gold, base metals, tortoiseshell and mother-of-pearl.  They worn in a variety of ways, from on the shoulder to the neck and waistlines, in the hair, and on ribbons  as necklaces  and bracelets 

• Mid-Victorian (1860-1880):  Because this period coincides with the death of Queen Victoria's husband, most of the pieces feature sombre designs.  Known as mourning jewellery,  pieces in this era use dark, heavy stones like onyx,  jet,  bog oak,  gutta percha  and red garnet.   Common colours used included blacks, purples, greys and mauves.  Eventually, discoveries from ancient places like Pompei, Greece and Egypt ushered in a new demand for jewellery that showcased ancient designs and craft techniques.  Mosaics,  Egyptian sphinxes, and Japanese themes were prevalent, often requiring the use of different and bolder coloured materials, like sea shells and jasper.

• Late Victorian (1800-1901):  During this period, much more feminine colours (like those found in sapphires, spinel  and peridot ) were used to create bangles, brooches,  dangling earrings  and lace pins.  Popular motifs included animals/insects, stars and crescent moons. 

• Arts and Crafts (1894-1923):  A reversion back to more simple patterns made using intricate craftsmanship, this period was often characterized colourful, uncut stones.  And because the style was a revolt against new technology that some felt was destroying craftsmanship, great value was placed on the imperfections of handmade pieces--these inconsistencies could make a piece truly beautiful.  Silver  was preferred over gold  during this time, as were other less valuable materials like brass and copper. 

• Art Nouveau (1895-1915):  Art Nouveau  started in France during the era called "La Belle Epoque" (The Beautiful Time) and was intended as a statement against jewellery making industrialization.   Designs during this time were particuarly fluid and often portrayed irises and other common flora; insects like dragonflies, butterflies and wasps; nude female figures and other creatures both real and imagined.  Wearers of these pieces were considered particularly avant garde. 

• Edwardian (1901-1910):  Ushered in by Queen Victoria's son, Edward, this was a very ornamental period for jewellery.  Most pieces were encrusted with diamonds, pearls  and other precious gemstones.   White gold,  platinum,  lace  and silk  were often used to create delicate choker and negligee (draped with two or more pendants) necklaces. 

• Art Deco (1920-1935):  A clear diversion from the fluid, floral designs that categorized predecessor eras, Art Deco jewellery  features strong, clean lines, geometric shapes and sharp colour contrasts.  Pins,  rings and bangles most often highlighted the angular, cubist-inspired designs, and using precious and non-precious stones side by side became a distinctly Art Deco trend.  Long beaded necklaces  made of everything from amber to faux pearls and glass beads  were in vogue, and men's accessories (tie pins  and cuff links ) became more popular.  Bakelite, enamel and celluloid were the most commonly used materials for costume jewellery during this time. 

• Retro (1940s):  Inspired by young Hollywood, retro jewellery  was grand in scale.  From chunky bracelets and watches to gaudy cocktail rings,  pieces were made using eye catching gemstones (like aquamarine  and citrine ) and shiny shades of gold.  Doublet bracelets, earrings that sat close to the lobe and charm bracelets  also became particularly popular during this time.   

Materials and Designs

Bakelite  A synthetic resin that can be moulded and carved to make jewellery, Bakelite pieces are highly desired collector's items today.	Celluloid  Made in the 1800s from some of the earliest plastics, celluloid is most commonly used in hair accessories, which were often set with rhinestones.	Cameos  Referring to a carving style where a design is raised above the surface, cameos were often carved on a shell or in stone.  Cameos were most popular during the Victorian period, and the most common cameos were portraits of women.	Doublets  Doublets are created by taking two pieces of inexpensive jewellery and attaching them to create the illusion of a precious gemstone.

Book chains  Book chains are made up of rectangular links that look like tiny books, and they often had large, eye catching lockets.	Signed or Stamped  Signed or stamped jewellery was made using a sheet of metal that was punched or embossed to in a specific pattern.  These pieces were often mass produced.	Lace Pins  Lace pins were used to hold women's scarves in place.	Micromosaics  Made with small, colourful tiles of stone, glass, ceramics and other materials, micromosaics were small pictures or deigns commonly found on pins.

Tips for Buying

When shopping for antique jewellery, keep in mind these simple tips.

• Learn the typical marks.  Antique and vintage jewellery pieces will often have particular marks that help you to recognize the maker and era.
• Learn how to tell the real from the fake.  Read up on antique jewellery on the web or at your local library.  There are plenty of resources out there that will help you catch a reproduction.
• Think about the value.  Certain metals or stones will make any piece more valuable, despite its design.
• Check out credentials.  Do research on local dealers and shops so you know who's reputable.

Jewellery Care

• Wear with care.  Vintage jewellery is difficult to repair, so make sure you remove it when playing sports, swimming, bathing or working with household cleaners.
• Get rid of dirt and grime.  Use a mild baby wipe or glass cleaner to remove dirt from stones and their settings.
• Use a special cloth.  Only use special jewellery polishing cloths to clean and dust your pieces.
• Store it separately. Don't toss your vintage pieces in with the rest of your jewellery box contents. They're likely to get scratched.

Related Guides

Women's Jewellery	Men's Jewellery	Wedding Day Jewellery	Jewellery Making

External Links

• Ebay.com:  A comprehensive vintage jewellery buying guide.
• Ehow.com:  How to choose good antique costume jewellery.
• JAntiques.com:  Information on different periods, styles and brands of antique jewellery.
• BarbaraRosen.com:  A Georgian jewellery guide.