Chemical Peels and Exfoliants Buying Guide
Exfoliation isn't some new trend. The ancient Egyptians are credited with the first known practice of exfoliation, but that was only the start of the skin care practice gaining steam. In the Middle Ages, people used wine as a chemical exfoliant, 
as the tartaric acid in wine played a very good active agent. So how to do you get started with this ancient skin care regimen? First, it's a good idea to know what exfoliation really is. The goal of the process is to remove the oldest dead skin cells from the outermost surface of the skin. Why, you ask? The shedding of the outer layer unclogs pores, keeps skin clean, and reduces the chance of acne breakouts. It's important for men, as exfoliation allows for an easier and closer shave. It's considered the first step in a skin care routine, so get ready to prep your skin to look its finest.
What Are Chemical Exfoliants?
Chemical exfoliants are an intense form of exfoliation. They are not for everyone, as the chemicals involved can be rather strong. Those with active acne, sensitive, or fragile skin should avoid chemical peels unless under the direct supervision of a dermatologist. If you have any doubts or questions about whether a chemical exfoliant is right for you, please consult your dermatologist. Chemical exfoliants can come in several forms. Dermatologists usually work with a scrub that contains salicylic acid, glycolic acid, fruit enzymes, citric acid, or malic acid in high concentrations. Over the counter products are also available, though these have lower concentrations of said acids and enzymes. Some chemical exfoliants contain alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) or beta hydroxy acids (BHAs), or enzymes that act to loosen the glue-like substance that holds the cells together, allowing them to ease away. These types of chemical peels are usually recommended for people looking to treat acne. In relatively low chemical concentrations they can be used on a daily basis (around 4%) whereas 8% to 10% is common for a mild home peel to be used once a week. Anything less than 4% is not effective as an exfoliant.
Other Ingredients
- Glycolic acid, a type of fruit hydroxy, is found in most at-home chemical peels. It is the strongest type available for a moderate to strong superficial peel.
- Lactic acid is a milk-derived acid that helps retexturize the skin and stimulate cell renewal.
- Salicylic acid, commonly found in acne medications and topical products, also helps reduce the appearance of fine lines and is usually quite mild.
Choosing a Chemical Peel
- Check the ingredients to see the percentage of AHA included in the product. If you are using a peel for the first time, work up slowly and gradually increase the percentage of chemicals as you find the right level of exfoliation for your skin. Know that the more concentrated the treatment, the deeper the chemicals can penetrate into the skin, sloughing off more dead cells and erasing more wrinkles.
- Understand the risks. Chemical peels can cause redness, irritation and peeling. The more potent the product, the more down time you will have to recover. On this note, always do a spot test before applying a product to the face to check for tolerance. It's also best to test a product for the first time on a Saturday night when you know you'll have at least a day to recover in case the product is too strong and leaves you looking red.
Quick Tips
- After using an AHA product for awhile at high percentages, your skin will develop a threshold. Try switching to a different type of acid, say from glycolic to salicylic.
- AHAs should not be used both morning and night when they have a very high percentage of AHA. Alternate with other antioxidant or anti-aging products to avoid irritation and dryness.
- Always use sunscreen when using AHA products as they increase the skin's sensitivity to the sun.
Quick Picks
Related Guides
External Links
- eHow.com: This article will tell you how to exfoliate the cheeks, chin, and neck.
- AskMen.com: This article is a must-read for men. It gives advice and step-by-step instructions on exfoliating for men.
- WebMD.com: Everything you need to know about chemical peels.
