Pearl Buying Guide
Buying pearls 
can seem as tricky going fishing for the oyster yourself, but if you know the different varieties and the qualities that make up the good ones, you can save yourself stress and some much needed cash. And because it's nearly impossible to tell what you want just by looking, knowing the right questions to ask your jeweller will ensure that you come home with the perfect string of pearls for that special night out.
Different Types
There are three major types of pearls: cultured ,natural and imitation . These types all differ in appearance and value, so it's helpful to know how to distinguish among them.
- Natural pearls are just that--a product of nature. Due to overfishing and pollution, finding naturally occurring pearls is extremely rare. And even if you are lucky enough to find one, the chances that it resembles the white, shiny ones in the store are low.
- Cultured pearls are farmed--made in fresh or salt-water environments monitored by humans. Pearl farmers essentially implant nuclei into molluscs, which stimulates nacre production--the stuff that makes the pearls. They can monitor the pearl production over time, accounting for adverse conditions that may inhibit its growth or affect its beauty potential. These are the most popular, and often most expensive pearls in jewellery stores today.
- Imitation pearls are made of glass, plastic or shell beads that are dipped in ground fish scales and lacquered with pearlescence. And although they are often easy to spot with the naked eye, run them along the edge of your front teeth if you're unsure. Real pearls will have a gritty feel, while fake ones will not, and the lacquered surface may even flake off. These type of pearls are evidently the least expensive and are often used in costume jewellery pieces.
There are also several different variations of pearls depending on the environments in which they are found.
- Freshwater pearls are found in mussels that inhabit lakes, rivers and ponds, and can occur in a variety of climates. Most freshwater cultured pearls sold today come from China.
- Salt-water pearls grow within oysters found in oceans, although they can be cultivated in lagoons or volcanic atolls. Akoya, Tahitian (or Black Tahitian) and South Sea pearls are the most common types of salt-water pearls.
Different Shapes
When buying pearls, you can choose from several different shapes, including round, off-round, button, symmetrical or baroque. While round pearls are generally the most popular and therefore, the most expensive, other shapes can work very well with certain jewellery pieces. Symmetrical pearls, for instance, are often shaped like tear-drops and make good earrings . Baroque, or irregular pearls, often give necklaces and bracelets a funkier overall feel.
When looking at pearl shape, it is also important to consider size and colour, as these factors will also impact the price.
- Pearls come in shades ranging from white to black and every shade in between (silver ,ivory ,champagne ,rose ,silver rose ,green ,grey ,blue ,aubergine ). But it's always important to distinguish between the pearl's colour and its overtone--the subtle variation in the iridescent surface. Certain colours have common overtones, and choosing the overtone often comes down to a matter of taste.
- White and gold toned pearls do, however, tend to look good on darker complexions, while rosé or white overtones look better on fair skin.
- Pink overtones can increase pearl price, while green or blue tints may lower the price.
- Faux pearls are often dyed certain colours, which makes them less expensive. Likewise, if a natural pearl has an exotic colour, the price tag goes up.
- Pearls are typically measured by their diameter in millimetres, and as little as a 1 millimetre increase in size can substantially change the appearance and value of the pearl. The typical pearl sold today is between 6.5mm and 7.0mm.
Questions to Ask When Buying
- How much should I spend?
- We've all heard that pearls never go out of style, but that doesn't mean you have to pay an arm and a leg for them. Remember to consider the aforementioned factors--type, size, shape, colour--when determining if a price is worth the product.
- Is there a grading system for quality?
- Since there is no uniform grading scale for pearls like there is diamonds, ask your jeweller how they categorize their pieces.
- A common grading scale is the AAA system, which grades AAA as nearly perfect and A as having significant flaws. An A-D system is more common with South Sea and Tahitian pearls.
- Do the pearls have good lustre or orient?
- Lustre is the glow or shine that comes from both the pearl's surface and its centre as a result of light reflection. Thus, the higher the pearl's reflective qualities, the more noticeable the lustre. Lustrous pearls also often have a good contrast between light and dark areas, and a nice orient--the nacre layers align perfectly on top of one another creating a prism of iridescent rainbow colours.
- How clean are they?
- Are there any nicks, bumps, scratches or other imperfections? If they're natural pearls, chances are that they'll have some.
- How well matched are they?
- The pearls on any piece of jewellery should be evenly matched--they should have similar sizes, shapes and colours.
- You can roll a strand of pearls on a flat surface to see how round and even they are.
Pearl Care
Wear and Tear
- Pearls are vulnerable to acids and alkalines, so put perfume and hairspray on before your pearls. If they get vinegar, fruit juices, detergents or other acidic substances on them, immediately wipe them off with a damp, soft cloth.
- Sweating can cause your pearls to lose their lustre too, so wipe them down with a damp, soft cloth after wearing them.
- Don't bathe in your pearls, water can weaken the silk thread.
- If you don't wear your pearls often, have the string replaced each year to lessen the chances of it breaking.
Storage
- Store them separately from other jewellery pieces so they do not get scratched.
- Make sure your storage container is not too hot, humid or exposed to direct sunlight.
- Take pearls out of the box every so often, otherwise they could dehydrate.
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